chris kolaczan

Pretty hard to find venomous ones around here and even if you do find them they aren't much of a worry (as long as you aren't a child or a dog). Still, I get a bit nervous when getting up close. Cool critters.

I also agree that I have no experience with this.

-30 with the windchill overnight here so trying to do this outdoors here might be life-threatening if one wasn't quick about it. I guess the suggestion was more about setting these images up during the shot to avoid having to fix stuff in post. I still think it is a concept worth working with (next summer).

Why not just redo it and have her positioned where she is blocking the logo (the car and the bike)? Obviously more work than cloning but might be worth it as it is a decent concept.

I have two "analog" (hate that term) lenses. A Samyang 12mm f2.0 and a Kamlan 50mm f1.1. My opinion of them is that they are great at what they do. The Samyang is one of the better aurora lenses around as it is wide and fast and has very good sharpness and coma characteristics. It is my go to night sky lens and still works great for landscapes (when something that wide is appropriate). I just got the Kamlan and have pretty low expectations but so far it looks like it will be a very useful lens. Both of these are more or less "specialty" lenses with some utility for more general work. I have other lenses for other applications including "all rounders". I doubt I would use a manual aperture/focus lens for general use. I just don't see the point (for what I do, YMMV). One of the great thing about both of these lenses is that they give you some pretty "high end" features at a VERY low price (compared to equivalents from other manufacturers). The "bang for the buck" factor is pretty high.

Congratulations by the way. $0.25 to $0.33 makes a big difference.

Really? You know exactly what the dynamic range of that situation is? You can see exactly how much noise (or lack thereof) there is in the darker areas? Damn, your amazing. There are certainly situations where bracketing is necessary, regardless of the sensor type. I seem to remember that Antelope Canyon was something on the order of 8 or 9 stops between the shadows and the sky. Even if a sensor "claims" 11+ stops, you simply can't reproduce the results (particularly shadow tones and noise levels) with sliders in Lightroom. It isn't as necessary a technique as it was 5 years ago even, but it still has its place.

Interestingly, I sold this one last month for $245 (RF, at a different site). I get 50% of that. This sale alone has made more than half (probably more) of my portfolio here has made in years. Even with the decreased number of sales (partly my fault for not doing the work on increasing discoverability) I make as much there as I do here. I've always supported the "one sale is better than zero sales" mentality but I've lost my faith recently. A single $0.33 sale here is absolutely insignificant (to me). As such, I don't really upload here much anymore.

Although that is technically true, a $0.33 sale on an image for which you had to purchase equipment and upload (data isn't necessarily free) doesn't cover the expense of actually creating the image. Future sales may happen but aren't likely to fix the equation. To each their own but I'd rather have a portfolio with 100 images that sell thousands of times each than 100 thousand images which sell once.

69% for me Almost a meaningless stat though. Having a single sale from an image is a failure in my mind.

Boat registration names/numbers.

Which, ironically, means that a whole pile of other images depicting 3x3x3 cubes using the keyword Rubik have been allowed into the image database. Reviewer consistency FTW.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubik's_Magic Rubik's Magic puzzle is (was) actually a thing so the title certainly isn't helping.

I have the X T-2 and love it. The macro lens is fantastic. Haven't played around much with most of the other ones (besides the "kit" 18-55 and a Rokinon wide prime which are also great). Haven't touched my DSLRs in years.

Plenty of suggestions that will work already posted. I've encountered this as well and I'm pretty sure it is just color fringing from slight lens CAs. Very likely a one or two click fix once you get the formula correct. If you think about it, the sky is cyan (sincerely don't mean to dredge that issue up again but it applies) and the rocks have a lot of red tones. Any fringing would combine red and cyan (green and blue) and the sensor would register it as RGB = white. Sort of makes sense. High contrast, lens fringing and digital sensors can make for some interesting combinations.