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Alfredo Cerra

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About Alfredo Cerra

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  • Birthday 12/23/1960

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    Trips, Music, Climb

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  1. Sony a 6000 plus an old Canon FD 135 2,8
  2. If you really like your lens keep it, or you will miss it. I’m not a Sony DSLR user. But I use a not so popular system (Pentax) only because I like some lenses. I have too the Sony A6000 that have the same or almost the same sensor of the A68. It produce nice images, and raw files with room for heavy edition. If you are interested in Macro and portrait, take a look on an used Tamron SP AF 90mm F/2.8 Macro Lens for Minolta/sony a. It is cheaper for sony a mount than for other brands. I have the pentax version, (thanks to Laurin Rinder for his advice) and it is grate.
  3. Is possible tell the truth and suggest for what the image may be used. This are my caption for this image “View of Domuyo volcanic area resembling the landscape of the planet Mars. Provincial Park Domuyo, Patagonia, Argentina” Unfortunately I had not chances up to now of visit Mars, but the image was used from time to time on web articles that talk about the planet.
  4. All is possible, but sometimes does not worth it. If you have the raw files you have more room for corrections. If you have copies of the JPG files before any editing too. Are you interested in use these images for stock? Are unique, it is not possible go to the places again? OK, we can not go anywhere just now. If the images are memories is better not look them with the review eyes. If you have editorial ones, maybe a light edition will be enough. And if you try the correction only as a challenge, it is OK too. Sorry, I have more questions than answer for sharing!
  5. I have a Ricoh GRII with a sensor spot like this. However, you can notice it only in the sky, not in complex subjects. If it is the case for you, post process correction may be ok.
  6. DXO was my main raw program until I started to use Sony cameras for my mountain trips. The DXO output looks me almost always over corrected for Sony, looking like renders. I found that C1 output for Sony was far more natural. On the other hand, Capture 1 has a free version for Sony and the Pro version only for Sony is not expensive alt all. Now, depending of the image, I’m choosing one or another. DXO allows me extracting more detail from shadows, and C1 does the same from the highlights. For me it matters specially in snowy landscapes.
  7. If you know the limits and strengths of your equipment you can take a good image with almost anything. You will find even images made with a pinhole camera here. Your approved image is a moon one. You probably had to use the digital zoom of the phone, so only a tiny section of the tiny phone sensor was used, and this means noise. It is better have a lot of light and do not use the digital zoom. The main limitation of a phone camera is that you can not control your images (Speed, aperture, ISO), so is harder look what was wrong and correct it. Almost any consumer camera will offer
  8. If Manual focus is an option, you will find good 35 mm F2 vintage lenses that may meet your budget.
  9. It depends on the type of film experience you had. As all my film cameras are manual focus ones, for me shooting film feeling is related to manual control of focus, aperture, and speed. And use some time in preparing the shoot. Any mirrorless used with manual focus lenses will give you that. An old Sony a7 or a6000, for instance. Enlarge the image for select the precise area where you want the focus gives me the experience close to using a split focus screen. I like the adapters for Canon FD lenses. You can select the aperture without close it, focus, close and shot.
  10. The contrast in the Background is better than the contrast in the white bird, so the camera selected the background. I use my a6000 mostly for mountain landscapes, and here the focus works OK, or for stay people, (face recognition works fine if people does not move too much). For other subjects, including wildlife, I prefer the Sony with manual focus lenses or a DSLR, and even with it selecting only a point for focus instead let the camera decide. Now they are introducing the a6400, with better AF, and in the near future eye AF for wildlife . https://www.dp
  11. It is a real good introduction to advanced mask work! As I do landscapes, most of the times i work with the brush and modify only the size. I do not need a net separation. By default, it is set with a soft border, so the effect is subtle. There is to an eraser brush, sometimes is easier fill the mask an then erase a zone. Maybe you can try some easy masks for the sky, or for dark areas, and then try the advances ones. C1 is really good recovering burned zones.
  12. If the color from the camera looks OK, maybe is better work only with the lights. Capture One have lot of tools for fine control of the color. It is possible, for instance, use different color temperature for different areas. Or make only the shadows a bit warm. For light, I prefer first mask the areas were I want to recover Highlights and shadows in different layers. Then, I use auto for the curves and soft the effect a bit. It pops the contrast and the saturation. At the end, the correct light is the best color maker. This one comes from a Sony a6000 worked with Capture One.
  13. Hi, Simon Look in the mountain gear stores. Everything you need for feel comfortable on cold whether is there. If you only have to stop the cold, polartec made liner gloves is a good option, as commented Laurin. If you need to stop the wind or the snow, maybe you will need gore-tex gloves. If the conditions are really bad, you will need both. I prefer neck straps if I need changing lenses. For mountain conditions, I made some lens cups that I can take off and on even with down mittens.
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