mikenorton

Don't worry about that image, toss it and reshoot. Sharpness - The difference between the smallest juxtaposed details in the image. Most people do not know which setting on their camera-lens-tripod has the most control over sharpness and it's dark-side noise. Do you know which control it is? Is it the shutter speed, aperture, locking up the mirror (if your camera has that), proper use of the tripod, cable release or self timer, manual focusing vs. auto focusing, depth of field, vibration reduction, raw file, jpeg file, zoom lens, prime lens, filters, white balance or the shooting mod

I had some time today to try all the fixes mentioned in the thread. It looks to me like I'm going to need to apply several of these, one on top of the other, to fix the problem. The more I look at the images the more CA I see. Now I have to decide if they are worth the time & effort. Thanks everyone for the help, screen shots and the link to the video.

I learned about this while taking a photography class in college. In the U.S. a photographer can stand on a public street and photograph into someone's house/building by way of an uncovered window. The people in the house/building must cover the windows if they want privacy. However in the U. S. a photographer can not stand on a public street and photograph by way of an uncovered window into a hospital. Hospital patients can expect this privacy.

I had an image of John Belushi doing his Joe Cocker imitation for sale on a print on demand website. The website took the image down and sent me an email saying Belushi's widow had contacted them saying that I did not have the right to sell the image. I had the negative in my hand, I own the rights to it. I shot the picture in 1975 as the cast of SNL gave a free performance in a public park in Houston. I renamed the file, reposted it and never heard another word about it.

While I was photographing a metal arrow embedded in the sidewalk in front of a tall bank building in downtown Dallas a plain clothed security guard told me I was not allowed to take pictures of the building. I told him I wasn't photographing the building, I was photographing the sidewalk and then walked across the street. When I got there I whistled and when the guard looked over I shot a picture of the building.

If you know what you are doing then better equipment can lead to better quality in your images. But learning more about what you are doing will help you to become a better photographer. Remember the old adage: How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice, Practice, Practice!

Chris, Yeah, the sky here is cyan, I'll make it bluer later in the work flow. What you see here is the RAW file with nothing done to it but being converted to a jpg so I could upload it. Your explanation seems to fit the problem. I've been shooting with this lens & camera for about 4 years and have never seen, or maybe I should say, I've never noticed it until now. I almost always try to shoot when there are clouds present but there were no clouds the whole first week I was in Joshua Tree. I see now that the clouds soften the break between the sky and rocks/mountains, and I thought I

I think one of the procedures described in the video might work.

mandritoiu, Where would I look to find out if chromatic aberration correction is enabled, either in my camera or on my post-processing software? I've checked my camera's Manual but didn't see chromatic aberration in the index. I'm using a Nikon D810 and Photoshop CS6. I'm just now watching the video you attached (I wanted to reply to your second post before I watched the video) so I feel like an idiot for asking where I could find the info when you had already given it to me. I'll definitely try the Raw convertor fix! Thanks again! Now back to the video.

mandritoiu, Where would I look to find out if chromatic aberration correction is enabled, either in my camera or on my post-processing software? I've checked my camera's Manual but didn't see chromatic aberration in the index. I'm using a Nikon D810 and Photoshop CS6.

They have given me fix for the symptom, I want a cure for the disease. As a stright photographer I want to know what to do so I don't see it again. I think it must be either something with the camera/lens combination or the subject. Since I have never seen it until now, I went back and looked at other images I've made with this camera/lens combination. I don't see it in earlier images either but what I do see in the earlier images is clouds. This leads me to believe that it's the way the camera sensor handles the abrupt change in opposite tones present in the subject. I think I can fix it if I

Whiteaster & Doug, thanks for your time, input and help. After reading a little more I think I see how to use a pixel layer. After I make the layer I have run the clone tool all along the edge of the rock. I was hoping it would be something quicker. You know a "one click fix". The image has been stitched and is quite large so I better get to it . . . well, right after lunch!

I'm sorry but I don't understand layers. I've never had to use them. Everything I google assumes I know what a pixel layer is and how to make one. Unfortunately nothing I can find will tell me how to make a pixel layer. I need detailed instructions from beginning to end.

Thanks Whiteaster, I had thought about doing that but I was hoping for a quicker fix. The link above is promising if I can figure out the Pixel Layer.

Thanks Doug, I didn't do any sharpening. I think I could use the link to fix the problem IF I knew what a "Pixel Layer" was and how to make one. Can anyone help me with that? I'm using Photoshop on an iMac.